Thursday, 26 March 2015

The Automatic Watch

THE AUTOMATIC WATCH.

Introduction

In this post, I am writing about automatic movements. My main focus is on the movements that HMT used, of them 8205 and 6501 are kept under the spotlight. I am also posting the Images of the 6501 movement that i recently serviced. And at last there will be a Close-up Video of both the movements.

So What Does The Automatic Movement Mean?
An automatic or self-winding watch is a mechanical watch in which the mainspring is wound automatically as a result of natural motion of the wearer's arm, to provide energy to run the watch, making manual winding unnecessary. A watch which is neither self-winding nor electrically driven is called a manual-wind or hand-wound watch. Majority of the mechanical watches sold today are self-winding.
The most important part of an automatic movement is the Rotor or the oscillating weight.


Rotor of  HMT Cal. 6501
                                                             

The Rotor And The Automatic Winding
The rotor has a ball bearing in the center and a wheel attached to the base. Due to the movement of the wearer's wrist, the rotor rotates on its axis and with it, rotates the wheel. The wheel is attached to several reduction wheels so that the torque becomes enough to wind the mainspring. There are also mechanisms to make the motion uni-directional , as the mainspring winds in only one direction.

The Problem That Automatic Winding Offers :
If the rotor has been rotating and the spring if fully wound, then if the rotor moves more, the Main Spring Could Break. So, this problem needs to be solved and the solution is as follows.

The Slipping Spring Or 'BRIDLE'
The 'slipping mainspring' device was patented by Adrien Philippe, one of the founders of Patek Philippe, in 1863, long before self-winding watches. It was invented to allow simultaneous winding of two mainspring barrels. In an ordinary manual-wind watch's mainspring barrel, the outer end of the spiral mainspring is attached to the inside of the barrel. In the slipping barrel, the mainspring is attached to a circular steel expansion spring, often called the 'bridle', which presses against the inside wall of the barrel, which has serrations or notches to hold it.
As long as the mainspring is less than fully wound, the bridle holds the mainspring by friction to the barrel wall, allowing the mainspring to be wound. When the mainspring reaches full wind, its force is stronger than the bridle spring, and further winding pulls the bridle loose from the notches and it simply slides along the wall, preventing the mainspring from being wound further. The bridle must grip the barrel wall with just the right force to allow the mainspring to wind fully but not overwind (which may result in it's breakage). If it grips too loosely, the bridle will begin to slip before the mainspring is fully wound, a defect known as 'mainspring creep' which results in a shortened reserve power time.
A further advantage of this device is that the mainspring cannot be broken by excessive manual winding. This feature was often advertised by watch companies as "unbreakable mainspring" or "nonbreakable mainspring".

The HMT Cal. 6501

Features
Automatic
Sweep second
Day: set by changing 20:30-24h
Date: quickset 


Data

10.5''', Mounting Diameter = 23.3mm, Outer Diameter = 23.75mm
Height = 5.3mm
(ball bearing +0.2mm)
F= 2.0mm
T= 2.3mm
21 jewels
Frequency = 21600 beats per hour
Power reserve = 36h


Stem : Citizen 065-107


Hands

1.50 x 1.00 x 0.17mm

Remarks
Redesigned Citizen 6501 with quickset date
The official calibre designation is not known, but after the reference number of the watch likely the Citizen number was retained.

Example, year: signature; shock device
ca. 1980: U; Parashock (Citizen)

Images Of Service That Was Done By Me













Miyota Cal. 8205 (HMT Cal. 8205)
Features
Automatic
Sweep second
Day: quickset, 2 languages 
Date: quickset

Data
11.5''', Mounting Diameter = 25.6mm, Outer Diameter = 26.0mm
Height= 5.2mm
F= 1.9mm
T= 2.3mm
With rotor screw and dial spacer:
Mounting Diameter = 28.55mm, Outer Diameter = 29.2mm
Height= 5.67mm
F= 2.1mm (rest to dial side)
T= 2.5mm
21 jewels
Frequency = 21600 beats per hour
power reserve 43h

Balance staff 
Citizen 039-1020
balance with hairspring

Stem Citizen 065-212

Mainspring
Citizen 001-8700
barrel complete

Hands

1.52 x 1.00 x 0.17mm
                                                                                                    
Some full forms

I thought that there maybe a few terms in the movement data that a newbie may not understand so here are a two of them which I believe are the only ones a new person may not understand. If you think that here are any other terms you do not understand or have any doubts please feel free to contact me or Vardhan

F mounting height, distance between dial plane and mounting flange.

T stem height, distance between dial plane and stem center


THE COUPLE


o0o0o0o0o0 Happy Horology 0o0o0o0o0o









Wednesday, 25 March 2015

Introduction To Watch Repair.


First of all, I would like to thank my friend Vardhan Mittal for allowing me to add more information to this blog. 
My name is Puranjay Mohan and I am a Intermediate level Horologist. After learning for 2 years now, I can service most of the Hand-wound, Quartz and Automatic watches.
Some watch movements that I have hands on experience with are :
  • Hmt : 020, all automatics, all ladies and quartz watch movements.
  • Seiko : automatics including - 6319A, 7009A, 7s26A.
  • Ricoh Automatics.
  • Allwyn Automatics.
  • Other movements: st96, st69, p62, b91 etc.
  • Quartz: miyota 2030, 1m02. Titan: 7000, 7100, 6000 a & b, 5120 ,5130. Ronda, al35e and others.

THE WATCH REPAIR

On this blog , Vardhan and I have decided to make learning horology easy and fun, I have seen many people who are enthusiastic about learning horology, but don't know where to go. SO, This is the place where you can learn Horology.
I will make a followup post for this topic. 

ALL PEOPLE WHO ARE INTERESTED TO LEARN HOROLOGY CONTACT ME OR VARDHAN.

FaceBook Or Email.  

Vardhan Mittal : vardhanmittal13@gmail.com

Puranjay Mohan: puranjay12@gmail.com


o0o0o0o0o0o0o0 HAPPY HOROLOGY 0o0o0o0o0o0o0o

Sunday, 22 March 2015

HMT NASS 11 'long' review.

As I wrote in my earlier post, this the second and the longer review of my HMT NASS11(New movement Automatic Steel case Steel bracelet 11) watch. Like I wrote, this watch has the miyota 8205 movement. It has date and bilingual day. It has unidirectional winding. The rotor has ball bearings, a kind of design which I like. This kind of design has an advantage over the Rolex type rotor where the rotor post has a jewel. The advantage is that in case of a very severe shock the jewel cracks and thus has to be repaired (in case of Rolex) but if the rotor has ball bearings there no to very little damage done to the winding mechanism. Let me come back to the review before I get carried away ;).The movement has twenty one jewels which is quite standard for an automatic movement in this price range.


The dial has a raised checkered pattern.The dial is black matte. The green dots on the dial are just for the looks they do not glow. The day-date window has raised silver border. The indices on the dial do not have a 'pure' silver color instead, the indices have a brownish-silver color. The same applies for the raised HMT logo. I  think this gives the watch a sort of 'vintage' look which I like. It is like owning a vintage watch without any of the drawbacks which a vintage watch may have.
The case of the watch is steel and so is the bracelet. The lugs are hooded and have a horizontal brush finish which I quite like. They watch case is not that hefty alone, but with the bracelet, it is quite hefty. Except the lugs the rest of the watch has a mirror-polished finish (although I have badly scratched that up). The case back is a screw-on type which provides better protection against dust and dirt. The watch measures approximately 35mm across without the crown and 10mm thick.
Overall, I quite like the watch and would recommend to anyone who has a small wrist or who likes vintage watches but do not want any drawbacks which a vintage watch may have. The current MRP. is 4000 INR.
UPDATE- The new Rolex Caliber 3255 has ball bearings.

Friday, 24 October 2014

Better pics of HMT dhruva.

 Here are some better pics of my HMT dhruva.


Better pics of tetter-totter watch.

Here are some better pics of my merry toys tetter-totter watch.





HMT NASS11 review

This is a review of  my daily beater, an HMT NASS 11. I bought this watch about a year ago from an AD. This HMT use the miyota 8205 movement. It has 21 jewels, unidirectional winding, bilingual day and date. The day can be formatted to English and Hindi. It has a power reserve of about 41 hours or so. I have the black dial version ( a blue one is also available although the seconds/minutes ring is black on both). Now posting the pics of it with Mr.Nehru :-).


I have reviewed my HMT NASS 11 in detail here

Monday, 6 October 2014

Farewell my dear HMT...

I was reading in the newspaper a while ago, thought I would share it. The Government of India has decided to shut HMT down. Well, another mechanical watch manufacturer will be shut down.
Here is a link to an article which you guys may want to read:
http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/business/india-business/Time-up-HMT-Watches-to-wind-down-after-53-years/articleshow/42296223.cms